As a safari novice, I was beyond excited for my first adventure in Tanzania. Even so, the country’s beauty and diversity far exceeded my expectations.
The Northern Circuit
My journey began with the Northern Circuit, Tanzania’s quintessential safari route. After landing at Kilimanjaro Airport and spending a restful, much-needed night in Arusha, my first safari took me to the floor of the Ngorongoro Crater. I’d heard about its popularity, and while sharing sightings with other vehicles was inevitable, the experience was still incredible. The crater is perfect for first-timers, offering a sense of security in close-sided vehicles and exceptional game viewing. Within an hour, I witnessed a lioness defending her kill from a male lion, a black rhino with her calf, and wildebeest crossing the Munge River—a behaviour that is incredibly rare for this area, on the basis that it is entirely unnecessary.
After a magical stay at Nomad’s Entamanu Lodge on the crater rim, complete with a stunning sunrise, my guide and I drove five hours across the Ngorongoro Conservation Area to the Eastern Serengeti. The drive offered an adventurous way to take in the scenery, but for those short on time, I’d recommend flying—it’s quicker without sacrificing the thrill of arrival.
Serengeti National Park
My introduction to the Serengeti began upon entering the Naabi gates at the eastern side of the park. While initially crowded with vehicles—particularly at a cheetah sighting—my guide quickly moved us to quieter spots. His fascinating insights about the area’s history and ecology kept the experience exciting. Alongside incredible sightings of big cats, including numerous lion cubs playing on kopjes and a full-bellied leopard lounging in a tree, I was struck by the unexpected presence of the wildebeest mega-herds. Early rains had driven the migration south earlier than usual, transforming the central plains of Seronera into a teeming wildlife spectacle.
Next, a short and mesmerising flight brought me to Kogatende in the northern Serengeti, where I spent five nights at a range of camps. Though the migratory herds had moved on, the wildlife viewing was exceptional, with far fewer crowds. For those not tied to the Great Migration, late October is an excellent time to experience the Serengeti’s beauty in relative uninterrupted peace.
Zanzibar
Next up on the agenda: Zanzibar. Before even coming to the archipelago, I had heard incredibly mixed reviews. Some were head over heels in love: powder-fine sandy beaches, warm, azure waters, and food to die for. Other opinions were less magnanimous: discussing Zanzibar around a campfire in the Serengeti, I had been informed by, an albeit incredibly well-travelled, 12-year-old boy tell me that the destination was ‘past its prime.’ In the end, I found both praise and criticism justified.
Some aspects were underwhelming. On much of the east coast, the tidal range left vast stretches of beach exposed during low tide. The beaches could also be intensely, overwhelmingly crowded, with tourists and vendors alike, leaving little room for that idyllic island relaxation we crave. Combine all this with the intermittent power outages, and it was going to be a disappointing trip.
However, the positives of the island, to me at least, far outweighed the drawbacks. With insider knowledge of the best locations, I was able to relax on stunning, quiet beaches, with powder-soft sand and crystal-clear waters that rivalled any postcard. What’s more, the island itself was gorgeous. The town of Paje was especially a standout, with its boutique cafes and shops brimming with handcrafted goods constructed from old dhow boats.
Southern Circuit
After the short stint on the beach, I returned to the bush, this time visiting the Southern parks of Nyerere (formally Selous) and Ruaha. Whilst the Northern circuit provided a great introduction, the Southern circuit stole the show for me.
Nyerere National Park
Nyerere is a vast, untamed wilderness, and its sheer scale makes it feel like you’ve stepped into a nature documentary. Despite its troubled history with poaching, conservation efforts have transformed the park in recent years, and wildlife here is flourishing. While the animals are generally more skittish compared to their counterparts in the north, the abundance of life is remarkable.
One of my favourite experiences was a boating safari along the Rufiji River, an activity unique to Nyerere. As we cruised through waters teeming with hippos and crocodiles, we witnessed a family of elephants crossing the river. The sight of the adults guiding their calves through the deep water, seemingly unbothered by the crocodiles nearby, was a breath-taking display of both maternal care and the resilience of wildlife in this remote region.
Ruaha National Park
One of Ruaha’s most remarkable features is its thriving population of predators, including lions, leopards, and cheetahs. But for me, the standout was the chance to witness Africa’s elusive wild dogs. A true highlight of the trip was watching a pack rouse from their afternoon nap on a dry riverbed. After greeting each other with boundless energy, the pack setting off into the bush. With a travel wine glass in one hand and binoculars in the other, we followed them through the shrubs. The dogs playfully interacted with one another and, hilariously, began antagonising flocks of guinea fowl. Their energy was electric—an infectious mix of chaos and camaraderie. Seeing these fascinating animals thrive in such a remote, wild setting was unforgettable.
For me, the Southern circuit embodies a more adventurous sense of safari. Here, one can go an entire morning without seeing more than a handful of impala and a few teasing footprints, that, in the presence of a great guide, manage to somehow be as exciting as spotting a lion climbing a tree. Granted, this won’t be to everyone’s taste – there is little instant gratification, and particularly for those short on time, the lack of sightings could leave a sour taste. However, for those wanting to get off the beaten track, and willing to compromise on ‘guaranteed’ animal sightings to escape the crowds, the southern parks are unparalleled.
Tanzania
What amazed me most about Tanzania was the sheer range of experiences it offers. From the iconic plains of the Serengeti to Nyerere’s riverine marshes and Ruaha’s miombo woodlands; each new park felt like a completely different world to the last.
Whether you’re a first-time safari-goer or a seasoned traveller, Tanzania’s diversity ensures an unforgettable journey. If you’re curious about planning your own trip, feel free to get in touch to have a chat about a safari in Tanzania.
